Giorno 09 · Giovedì 2 Luglio

Roma

Borghese, Vatican & The Final Supper

Thu 02 Jul · MMXXVI

“The trip began before Leonardo's Last Supper; it ends with a last supper of our own.”

The richest single day of art on the itinerary — Bernini at nine, the Sistine ceiling after lunch, Michelangelo's first Pietà before sunset — closing at a two-top above the Tiber lanes.

L'Orario · Hour by Hour

The Day's Passage

  1. 08:00

    Sant'Eustachio Il Caffè

    Espresso standing at the marble counter where the crema is a guarded secret.

    Apri in Maps ↗
  2. 09:00

    Galleria Borghese

    A private timed slot (seats 219 & 233) in the cardinal's villa: Apollo and Daphne mid-transformation, the Rape of Proserpina's impossible marble grip, and a room of Caravaggios.

    Seats 219 & 233Timed slot

    Apri in Maps ↗
  3. 11:00

    Villa Borghese to the Pincio

    Through the umbrella pines to the Pincio terrace — Piazza del Popolo and the dome beyond.

    Apri in Maps ↗
  4. 12:00

    Pizzarium Bonci

    Pizza al taglio weighed and cut with scissors — Rome's most serious slice, eaten on the curb.

    Via della Meloria 43

    Apri in Maps ↗
  5. 13:30

    Vatican Museums & Sistine Chapel

    A private City Wonders tour through the map galleries and the Raphael rooms to the chapel itself — sibyls and prophets shoulder to shoulder, the Creation overhead, the Judgment on the altar wall.

    City WondersRef 256672

    Apri in Maps ↗
  6. 16:30

    St. Peter's Basilica

    Straight in through the tour door: Michelangelo's Pietà — carved at twenty-four, the only work he ever signed — and Bernini's bronze Baldacchino under the dome.

    PietàBaldacchino

    Apri in Maps ↗
  7. 17:30

    Ponte Sant'Angelo

    Across the angel bridge at sunset, Bernini's marble witnesses lining the way.

    Apri in Maps ↗
  8. 20:30

    The final supper — Per Me

    Giulio Terrinoni's one-star dining room in Vicolo del Malpasso: the seafood tasting menu, and the trip's last toast.

    1 Michelin starRef BMHLHKW3

    Apri in Maps ↗

The Keystone · Gian Lorenzo Bernini, 1622–1625

Apollo and Daphne

Apollo and Daphne
Carrara marble · Galleria Borghese

Bernini was twenty-three when he began this and he chose the single impossible instant: Apollo's hand closes on Daphne's waist at the exact moment her prayer is answered and she stops being catchable.

Circle it slowly — the museum placed it so the story unfolds as you walk. Fingers lengthen into laurel twigs, toes root into bark, hair bursts into leaves; at the back of the group, marble is carved thinner than coin, translucent against the window light.

It is Baroque sculpture's whole argument in one piece: stone convinced to move. After the ceiling and the Pietà this same afternoon, it completes the trip's long conversation between marble and spirit.

La Tavola · The Table

Where We Eat

Pizzarium Bonci

Via della Meloria 43

Two strips by weight — whatever just came out of the oven.

Apri in Maps ↗

Per Me — Giulio Terrinoni

Vicolo del Malpasso 9

The seafood tasting menu — the final supper. ★

Apri in Maps ↗

L'Album · Giorno 09

Una Nota Da Portare Dentro

From the painted supper in Milan to this table above the Tiber: the supper that has no end, carried home.